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The
overriding factor will be what sort of woodworking you want to do. If
your main interest is toy making or small boxes, you will not want a
cumbersome heavyweight. Conversely, if you are working commercially,
making kitchen cabinets, fitted wardrobes etc. the lightweight DIY
models won't be much help.
Power.
You
need adequate power to meet your specified woodworking goals, but the
benefit of high power has to be set against the disadvantage of using
a heavy router for handwork. If, however, you plan to do much work
with the router mounted in a table, the more power the better because
routers tend to be worked much harder in a table.
Motor
Speed.
For all but the lightweight models,
variable speed is an advantage. It gives more versatility in the use
of larger diameter cutters, and enables other materials such as
plastics and alloys to be cut at the correct speed. In addition you
get the great benefit of a 'soft start' when you switch on. With a
heavy-duty router, bought for general use, I would not consider a
single-speed model.
Switch.
As
far as I am concerned the simpler the switch the better. Switches
that cannot be locked in the 'ON' position create problems for
some hand-held operations and for table routing.
Base
Aperture.
 For
heavy-duty work, especially in a router table, the larger the base
aperture the better, to allow large diameter cutters to pass through
and to give good visibility when working.
Collet.
The best collets are precision made from tempered steel, and
taper to fit into a tapered motor shaft. Poorer collets are made from
a cone-shaped lump of steel which is often too shallow to grip much
of the cutter shank, wears quite quickly, causes cutter chatter, and
makes hard work of the cut. 
Heavy-duty
routers have 1/2" collets. Those with the best-engineered type
tend to offer corresponding collets for smaller shank sizes; those
with the poorer type tend to offer reducing sleeves for
narrower-shank cutters. This is not as efficient as the proper
collet.
Plunge Depth.
A
few routers allow the collet to be plunged through the router base.
This is invaluable in regaining the depth of cut lost when the router
is used in a table or with a guide bush and template. Manufacturers'
specifications rarely give any information on this vital point. Their
'plunge depth', simply tells you how far the router body travels up
and down on the plunge legs.
If the collet can be plunged to touch
the bench top, you can't really complain. Anything deeper than that
is a bonus, but anything much shorter could create problems with some
operations.
Depth of
Cut.
There
are two aspects to this:
a) How precise and easy is it to set the
depth of cut? Many recent models use a very efficient system based on
a vernier ring on a winding knob.
b) Is there a fine adjuster (or
provision for one) that prevents the router rising if the plunge lock
is inadvertently released? This is not only a great convenience in
setting the exact depth of cut; it is also a valuable safety factor
in applications such as dovetailing.
Plunge
Lock Mechanism.
There are two basic methods of
locking the plunge: a twist-knob handle or a separate clamping lever.
The general rule is twist-knobs on light-duty routers, separate
levers on heavy-duty routers and either on medium-duty routers. My
experience is that the more you use a router the more you favour the
separate clamping lever.
Handles.
The
two main types of handle are knobs and side levers. The latter give
more leverage and are almost always the type found on heavy-duty
routers. Handles are also all the better for being just that -
without also carrying the switch, or the plunge lock, or both.
Base
Plate.
Most router bases are fitted with a plastic facing plate.
If this is removable it can be easily replaced when worn.
Additionally, most bases have threaded holes to take screw-on
accessories or to attach the router to a table. Some have only the
guide bush holes, which may not even be threaded these days. Such
models, especially if they are heavyweights, restrict the choice of
router table.
Side
Fence.
A side fence is a standard accessory with
all routers. A substantial fence, with removable rods, adjustable
cheeks, and a fine adjuster is desirable. This is less important if
the router is bought exclusively for table use.
Guide
Bushes.
A
good range of guide bushes is a very useful but greatly underrated
feature (unless the router is bought exclusively for table use).
Fortunately, for any model lacking its own range of guide bushes, it
is always possible to buy or make an auxiliary sub-base to take
another manufacturer's guide bushes.
Dust
Extraction.
Virtually all manufacturers offer
some form of dust extraction connector, usually as part of the
standard kit but occasionally as an optional extra. Good-intentioned
as these are, it has to be said that the best extraction, by far,
comes from building it in to the router. There are only one or two
such routers at the moment but this is clearly the direction in which
router development is going.
With some of the existing systems,
fixing the extractor spout to the router base effectively destroys
any visibility through the base.
Extraction is a different matter
with a router table, however. It goes with the table rather than the
router and is much more user friendly. You might not pick up all the
dust but at least you are not struggling to avoid tripping over the
hose, and you can still see what you are doing.
Ease
of Use in a Router Table.
For easy fitting and
use in a router table, the router should have a base plate with good
visibility and substantial attachment points, a deep plunging collet,
a simple switch (even though it should be operated via an NVR switch)
and a height adjusting system that makes setting the depth of cut
easy and accurate.
Accessories.
The
versatility of the router depends not only on the range of
accessories offered by its own manufacturer, but also its suitability
for use with other suppliers' products. Always consider what
accessories you are likely to aspire to and their suitability for use
with your proposed router.
Different users will attach different
weight to the various factors above.
If you are considering the
purchase of a router, it will be worth your while buying a copy of
Routing which, in each issue, contains a Router Guide giving, for
each router, information on all the factors discussed above.
Buying
Checklist.
Motor and power.
What
is your intended use? Variable speed is essential for large-diameter
heavy cutters.
Size and weight.
Will
the router be used mainly in the hand? Will it be used for inlay work
or freehand routing e.g. house signs?
Collets.
Are
the collets of good quality? Is there a range of other sizes, and are
these proper collets rather than reducing sleeves?
Collet
plunge.
Does the collet plunge through the router
base? If not does it fall far enough short to create problems in the
intended work?
Fine height adjustment.
Is
there a fine height adjuster built in? Available as an
accessory?
Handles and switches.
Are they simple, accessible
and easy to use?
Base.
Is the
aperture big enough for most of the cutters you are likely to use? Is
the visibility satisfactory? Are there substantial fixing points for
attachment to a table?
Side fence.
Does
it have detachable rods, adjustable sliding cheeks, fine
adjuster?
Guide bushes.
Is
there a good range of guide bushes? Will it be necessary to buy an
adapter plate and use another make of guide bush?
Dust
extraction.
Is a dust extractor spout supplied as
standard? Is it easy to attach and detach, does it interfere with the
guide bushes, does it limit plunge depth, cutter diameter and
visibility.
Suitability for table use.
Is
the router easy to attach to a table? Is the collet plunge adequate?
Is the base aperture big enough for the large cutters likely to be
used in a table? Is the switch a simple one and is there a fine
height adjustment?
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